What is Surf Ecology?

by Derek Dodds July 03, 2016 1 Comment

(versión en Español abajo)

I’m here in California working together with Wave tribe to investigate, document and communicate a relatively new train of thought affecting surfing industry and surfers.

Why California?

There’s a convergence factor that makes out of this territory a rich source of vanguardist ideas regarding surf and ecology.

On one side, California is and has been the most liberal state in the country, and for this reason has been calling the attention of travelers from all over the world who found a place to let ideas and creations flow abundantly.

In one same day I had the opportunity to set up a dialogue with people with different nationalities, touching diverse themes, always sensing open-mindedness and positive attitude. Without a doubt a favorable space to express and create one-self.

And on the other side, California is a place with tremendous surfing culture due to its long history. Hawaiians’ arrived to these lands more than a century ago, and experiencing some quiet periods and some explosive ones, surfing went on developing and becoming what’s now a lifestyle, or a complex sport moving people all over the world. These two factors indicate us that California is a great place for forward thinking people to express and create tendencies, and in what this work attends, the tendency of surfing and environmental awareness.

Defining the tendency is difficult because it is developing and acquiring new forms as the guiding minds of this process create new horizons. Nevertheless we can observe some representative concepts of this movement.

The first one is about responsibility, and comes up from he who produces different surfing articles, and from he who acquires them. In market terms, producer and consumer slowly begin to awaken to the possibilities if using harmless materials to the planet.

So which are the new production techniques that offer boards and other eco-friendly surf products?

Can these products call the attention of a price, ultra technology perfectionist mind orientated surfer?

The second concept relates to surfer’s identity, and my question is: which are the values of nowadays surfers? What moves him, what is it that he appreciates, what is he willing to take care of and what is he not?

There will be no distinction here between producer or consumer, I’m aiming at everyone who puts his feet in the water on a regular basis. This is who’s known as a surfer, and this is who will define surfing’s future through his style and way of being.

All these individuals form the “surfing community” and  will together define how they want to share waves in a planet which cannot satisfy nowadays growing surfers’ demands, which kind of products they’ll accept and which they will reject, what type of behavior will they admit and what will they not. How will they define all these issues?

Communication, internet, leadership, commitment, unity of generations, and more than any loving of the sport. That’s why he will take care of the earth, who’s offering such pleasure and of his brotherhood surfers who enjoy together the wonderful trip of surfing.

I’m willing to follow the path that this investigation proposes, that´s why it will be good that everyone who feels part of this community becomes aware that he is, and acts consequently by being strong on his ideals, taking them on their surf trips and sharing them with other communities.

I wish this blog can be a place of dialogue and exchange of ideas, and I am at the community disposal for the time I stay here in order to take the most out of this place and these people.

I´ll be interviewing some characters such as shapers, leading local surfers, eco friendly surf producers and all of those influential people who are willing to leave a testimony. Criticisms and comments welcomed!

Hola comunidad del Surf!

Estoy aquí en California de la mano de Wave tribe para investigar, documentar y comunicar una corriente de pensamiento que afecta a la industria de surf y al surfista de estos tiempos. ¿Por qué California? Existe una convergencia de factores que hacen de este territorio una riquísima fuente de ideas de vanguardia en lo referente a surf y ecología. Por un lado California es y ha sido el estado más liberal de los estados unidos, y por esta razón ha ido atrayendo la atención de los viajeros del mundo que encontraron un lugar para dar rienda suelta a sus diversas creaciones. En un mismo día tuve la oportunidad de tener diálogos con personas de diferentes nacionalidades, tocando variedad de temas, siempre sintiendo apertura y cordialidad. Sin duda un medio favorable para expresarse y crear. Y por el otro lado, California es uno de los lugares con mayor cultura de surf por su extensa historia.  Los hawaianos llegaron a estas tierras hace más de un siglo, y con algunos periodos de quietud y otros de explosión, el surf fue desarrollándose y convirtiéndose en lo que es hoy un deporte complejo que mueve personas por el mundo entero. Estos dos factores son los que nos indican que California es una incubadora de pensadores progresistas, que llevaran muchas tendencias, y en lo que me respecta en esta investigación, la del surf y la conciencia ambiental. Definir esta tendencia se hace difícil ya que está desarrollándose y tomando nuevas formas a medida que las mentes impulsoras de este proceso crean nuevos horizontes. Pero podemos observar algunos conceptos representativos de este movimiento. El primero trata de la responsabilidad, que surge de parte de quien produce los diferentes artículos necesarios para el surfista, y de quien adquiere estos productos. En términos de mercado, oferente y demandante despiertan juntos la conciencia de la responsabilidad por el impacto de los materiales utilizados sobre planeta. ¿Cuáles son entonces las nuevas formas de producción que ofrecen tablas y demás artículos amigables para el planeta? ¿Pueden estos productos atraer la atención de un surfista obsesionado por precios bajos y tecnologías ultra perfeccionistas? El segundo concepto se refiere a la identidad del surfista, y lo que me pregunto es: ¿Cuáles son los valores del surfista de hoy? ¿Qué aprecia, que lo mueve, que quiere cuidar y que no? Aquí no habrá distinciones entre productor o simple consumidor, apunto a todo aquel que mete los pies en el agua con regularidad. Este es quien lleva el nombre de “surfista”, y es quien definirá el futuro del deporte a través de su estilo y forma de ser. Y todos estos forman la gran “comunidad del surf”, y juntos definirán como quieren compartir las olas, que tipo de productos aceptaran y cuales rechazaran, que comportamientos admitirán y cuales no. Como definirán estos temas? Mediante la comunicación, el internet, el liderazgo de algunos surfistas, el compromiso de todos, la unidad de las generaciones, y por sobre todo el amor por el Surf. Por eso cuidará la tierra que es quien le ofrece semejante goce, y a sus hermanos que disfrutan juntos el gran placer de surfear. Estoy abierto a seguir el rumbo que esta investigación proponga, por eso sería bueno que todo aquel que se siente parte de esta comunidad sea consciente que lo es, y actúe en consecuencia transmitiendo sus ideas, llevándolas a otras culturas de surf. Que este blog sea un espacio de intercambio de ideas, y me pongo a disposición de la comunidad por este mes y medio para aprovechar este lugar tan rico. Entrevistare a algunos personajes como shapers,  surfistas líderes locales, productores de artículos de surf eco-friendly, y a todos aquellos personajes influyentes que quieran dar su testimonio.   Críticas y comentarios son bienvenidos. Saludos surfistas del mundo! Santiago.


Derek Dodds
Derek Dodds

Author


1 Response

Derek
Derek

February 15, 2016

Wow, that is an excellent post. I am honored by your stoke and impressed by your words amigo, thank you.

Derek, Founder Wave Tribe

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Wave Tribe Social Proof
Size Chart

Surfboard Leashes

You Break It We Replace It in First Year. 

Buy a leash closest to your board size—i.e. for 6'4 surfboard you need a 6' leash. 

All leashes are 7mm thick, competition leashes which are lighter/thinner 5.5 mm. 

Pioneer Day Boardbags - Fits One Surfboard

All boardbags have +2 inches. Thus a 6'6 board fit's perfectly in a 6'6 boardbag. All Pioneer bags have expandable fin gussets, so you can keep your fins on your board in the bag—or you can roll with glass-on fins.

Pioneer Sizes:

All bags have interior pockets (fins, leash and wax), bags fit industry standards. 

Our 8'6, 9'6 and 10' bags have fin slots and round noses. 

Pioneer bags also have an exterior pocket and zip all the way to the nose.

Travel Bags - Fits Two Surfboards

All Global boardbags have +2 inches, so if you buy a 6'2 boardbag, the real length is 6'4—thus you have a bit of room to play. 

Global Travel Bag Sizes:

Travel boardbags are 6'-8' inches deep to accommodate two boards—though you can travel with one in these bags without a problem—there are two interior pockets for leash, wax, and fins.

Surfboard Travel Bag Pockets Fin Wax Leash

Travel boardbags have two padded boards separators and two pockets for your gear. 

* Travel boardbags also have 13mm + 13mm of extra padding in the nose and tail.

Travel Bags with Wheels - Fits Two Surfboards

New in 2016 is the double travel bag with wheels. Sometimes you want a smaller bag with wheels, now you can have it. All Global boardbags have +2 inches, so if you buy a 6'2 boardbag, the real length is 6'4—thus you have a bit of room to play. 

Global Travel Bag Sizes:

Travel boardbags are 6'-8' inches deep to accommodate two boards—though you can travel with one in these bags without a problem—there are two interior pockets for leash, wax, and fins.

Wave Tribe Wheelie Surfboard Travel Bags

Travel boardbags have two padded boards separators and two pockets for your gear. 

* Travel boardbags also have 13mm + 13mm of extra padding in the nose and tail.

Boardbag Material & Hardware - All Bags

Side A of the bag is made from a strong density Rugged Eco Hemp exterior which is one tough fiber and naturally built to last with high impact padding protection with Rebound Foam Dynamics including open-to-nose technology.

Side B is the reflective (rental-car-roof-side) made from Reflective Energy Shield for "Cooler Surfboard Safeguard" protecting your surfboard from the sun's harmful rays made from an alloy-steel mesh weave.

All Sides are guarded by our Japanese Never-Rust-or-Break Nickel Platted Zippers streamline zipper trails and our trademarked Easy Flow Zip System.