The rock releases the heat from daytime exposure to the sun, it’s warm to the touch. It’s taken me a lot of energy and time to get here, but it started with dreaming of surfing.
“There’s been a schedule change check your email”, the principals voice cuts through a moment of calm before students arrive and before I start a day of teaching.
Every year these six Latin American pro surfers pack their bags and travel along the Central and South American coast in search of young minds to inspire. Most of the surf spots they visit are small coastal communities with families living under harsh conditions and scarce financial resources. These surfers aim to empower the younger generations living in these coastal communities.
When I came to Puerto in May I fell in love with the place: a long sandy beach, perfect clean barrels and nice palapas were one could drink a beer, eat some good food, and watch the sunset. A few weeks later the rain started and with it came the sacred offshore winds. However, the rain also brought in a bunch of trash that was carried from the rivermouths and the streets all the way to the sand .