We camped at La Bamba for two weeks, maybe 100 yards from the break. Our camp was fortunately and unfortunately positioned right by the entrance to the beach; we had to take only a few steps to check the surf, but we were also privy to all the foot and surf tour traffic.I surfed at least twice everyday and as many as four times per day while at La Bamba.
Every year these six Latin American pro surfers pack their bags and travel along the Central and South American coast in search of young minds to inspire. Most of the surf spots they visit are small coastal communities with families living under harsh conditions and scarce financial resources. These surfers aim to empower the younger generations living in these coastal communities.
Glancing over his shoulder, his attention galvanized, his body flooded with readiness, he accelerated his stroke, and whispered with a vaguely ironic smile, "It's a good day to die."
Almost regardless of size, steepness, speed, surface of the sea floor, or even level of surfing competency, many of us have experienced analogous feeling of being up against our limits or some unknowns that awoke primal fears and primal responses of readiness to engage with it.