Chicama is known as longest left in the world. Chicama’s not often working at its best, which is a south or southwest swell anywhere from 6 to 12 feet. But it’s often working, catching southerly and westerly swells of a meter or more and pitching them up to be sculpted by nearly constant offshore winds. There are four breaks and gaps between them, so it’s not the one wild ride.

Driving though those dirt road towns that felt like the wild west, I would always be transported to a mythical time—at the very least I would be able to surf some sick waves without tons of OC kooks in the line-up (no offense to you if you live in the OC, that's where I grew up).