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Surfing Southern France and Nothern Spain

Surfing Southern France and Nothern Spain

“What does it mean to pre-board? Do you get on before you get on?” ~ George Carlin

A surf trip is an opportunity to see new places and to discover yourself through the expression of who you think you are beyond the borders of your country—it will expand your mind and enrich your life in very meaningful ways so please don’t wait to do it.

In this article, we will explore surfing in Southern France and a bit of Northern Spain.

Surfing in Southern France: Overview

I have been traveling for over a decade in search of waves and experiences along European coastlines, and I can tell you that much adventure awaits you.

Surfing in Southern France was written with the help of a local French surfer with over 30 years of experience surfing in southern France. We asked him to help us create this Surfer’s Guide to Southern France, and he said yes. Trés cool!

Unfortunately, we will only discuss the known spots in the southwest of France. The locals told us that if we discussed the secret surf spots, we would never have another chocolate French croissant; believe me, this is a great punishment we want to avoid. With a bit of creative exploration, you’ll find some unknown oceanic French jewels while surfing southern France.

Most known spots are crowded in the summer, but you can find empty line-ups off the beaten path or during the fall and winter. The fall is our favorite time to travel and surf in southern France, and the weather can be exceptionally warm.

September and October offer some solid swell with spring-suit or trunk-able conditions. They are mostly outside the busy European travel season—especially in October when I'll be there!

The fall is cheaper, and the surf is more consistent in the off-season. June through the beginning of September can be packed like a Mexican piñata, and unless you like the sardine feeling, we’d recommend staying away from this season.

Of course, you can go in the summer too—it’s a different place with topless girls and bronzed Italians. During winter, the only thing topless will be your red wine bottle.

Winter can be brutal—you’ll want a 5/4/3 wetsuit with a hoodie, gloves, booties, and a bottle of tequila tucked into it to keep you warm. You’ll need a 3/2 full suit in October and sometimes into November.

I lived in Lacanau in the winter—it can be punishingly cold (like snow-on-the-beach cold), and the waves can get so big that you won’t be able to surf.

There will be many days in the winter with perfect, uncrowded waves. Spring can also be enjoyable, but the swells are less frequent and come from a different direction—May can be fun.


The tourists return to work in mid-September, so the surf is not too crowded, except in Biarritz, Hossegor, and Lacanau.

The best surf is around Hossegor and Biarritz/Anglet.

There are always a lot of surfers there, no matter what the season, and sometimes, a few pros are dangling about—especially before the professional contests (usually in October).

The Surf Basics in Southern France: Best Times are September, October, & November

The French southwest coast is mainly exposed to full west swells (much like southern California), meaning the offshore wind is mainly from the east. Here are the wave facts:

  • The swells come from the Northwest or the West.
  • The best swells come from the Northwest.
  • The biggest and most powerful waves break on sand bars.
  • There are some reefs in the south, around Biarritz, mainly to the south of the city.

💡 Insider’s Tip: There are a lot of small towns and unknown surf spots between Soulac and Lège-Cap-Ferret, in the Médoc between Biscarosse and Seignosse, in Les Landes between Capbreton and Anglet, and further south of Biarritz. Don’t limit yourself to the top name breaks. Get in the car, explore, and find some real gems.

The best time to surf southern France is in the fall, during September, October, and November. These three months are synonymous with ze’ French Power, with off-shore winds, barrels, and some big swells. Water temperature is still good south of the Aquitaine region, between 60° and 70° Fahrenheit.

Surf Spots in Southern France

Getting to Southern France

There are various ways to travel to Southern France. The biggest French airport is obviously in Paris, but there is one small international airport in Bordeaux called Bordeaux Mérignac, an hour's flight from Paris.

Flying into Bordeaux is the most convenient and direct route to the surf. However, a national airport in Biarritz is also a good second option if you can find an airline that flies there.

There are numerous trains from Paris to Bordeaux (3 hours on the TGV Fast Train) and Biarritz (5 hours)—in fact, train travel in Europe is a great way to get around. Taking the fast train can be quicker than flying and much cheaper to transport your boards. You can take your boards on the train with no problem.

Train travel in Southern France

Train travel is a great way to get around in Europe.
Photo by Maxime Agnelli on Unsplash

From the States, I recommend flying into Paris or Bilbao, Spain. In the off-season, a round trip from Los Angeles will cost about $800- $1200 and take about 12 hours. I recommend flying into Paris and hanging out there for a few days before or after your surf adventure (it always depends on the swell, of course).

The first thing you need to know is that Paris is split into districts; think of them as small neighborhoods. I also suggest at least two days in Paris near the 6th district, it’s close to most everything and has great shopping and dining.

It will cost you 50 euros to take a taxi from the airport to the center of Paris, which will take 20-40 minutes. You can also take the train, but it’s a pain in the arse if you have boards and luggage with you. You’ll save about 30 euros, which is not really worth it in my opinion.

💡Insider’s Tip: One of my favorite places to eat in Paris is La Madonnina Italian restaurant at 10 Rue Marie Et Louise. The telephone number is 01 42 01 25 26. There are tons of places to eat in the 6th district.

All trains departing for the Southwest of France leave from Gare Montparnasse in the 14th district (an easy walk or taxi ride from the 6th). You’ll want to take the TGV fast train to the south of France to Bordeaux, Dax, or Biarritz.

 
Train journey from Paris to Bordeaux.

The train ticket to Bordeaux costs about $100 each way. Once you get to the south, you’ll want to rent a car at the train station or airport ($500 for one week).

Booking your train tickets in advance can save you lots of dinero. You can book your train tickets online here. It’s a little tricky to pre-book a car on the internet at the Bordeaux train station, but with a bit of persistence, you can do it.

The train station is Bordeaux-Saint-Jean Train Station, and the car rental companies on site are Sixt, Avis, National, Alamo, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, and Europcar. The easiest way to book is to do it directly through the company website.

I usually fly into Paris and out of Bordeaux Mérignac (BOD) airport (you can fly to many other European locations from Mérignac), and they always let me pick the car up at the train station and drop it off at the airport at no extra charge.

You can ask them about this when you pick up the vehicle. If you fly into BOD and need to get to the train station, a bus will shuttle you either way for 7 euros. It leaves every 45 minutes and takes about 30 minutes, depending on traffic.

Give yourself an hour if you need to catch a train or flight. At BOD airport, the pick-up is in front of Terminal B at exit 11.

If you are taking the bus from the train station to BOD, look for the same sign in front of the train station in Bordeaux. If you decide to rent a car, get the insurance.

On one trip, when I got home, there was a letter waiting for me telling me that the rental car company had charged my card an additional 250 euros for a small scratch on the fender, not trés cool. Pay a little extra to avoid those unforeseen charges. It sucks to get a large bill that you didn’t expect in the mail after an epic surf trip.

On the main highway, watch out for the radar cameras. You’ll see a warning sign before you hit the radar zone, but if you don’t slow down and you see a flash, you will get the ticket in the mail, or the car rental agency will charge your card for the infraction.

Sometimes, the police will set up stops or use radar on the more minor roads leading into towns. The French usually have border agents at the toll booths going back into France, so you might want to dispose of any Moroccan goodies before you cross the border.

I’ve never seen the Spanish stop or screen anyone going the other way. Seriously, though, cars in Europe aren’t like American behemoths, and you’ll most likely end up renting a smallish car.

Once you pile your wetsuits, wine, luggage, and boards into the cramped space, you’ll wish you had racks. Oh, yeah, don’t scratch the roof with the racks or leave your boards unattended—they might disappear.

Another option is to fly into Spain and drive up to the surf in France from Bilbao. It’s about a 3-hour drive from Bilbao to Bordeaux, and the flight from the USA is about the same price.

It’s a really easy drive, and the car rental companies don’t mind if you cross the border into France or vice versa.

Do you hate border crossings? Do you have bad memories of Mexico? Well, where to grab your coffee and croissant is your greatest worry while traveling between Spain and France. The border crossing is not an issue; you just drive straight through. If you do get stopped, it will be on the French side at the toll booth by a hot French chick.

Surfboards in France

As we all know, flying with boards is uncomfortable and expensive. That’s why I must talk about surfboards in France. There are a lot of surf shops all along the coast, like everywhere in the world.

You’ll find small, funny surf shops and branded surf shops. You’ll find exactly the same brands of surfboards in France as in the US or Australia—and let’s not forget those cheap Chinese and Thai surfboards. When surfing waves like this, you will want your own surfboards—make sure you pack them in Wave Tribe's Hurricane Chaser Surfboard Bag.


Another option is to rent your board. Nick at Ocean Gypsy Surf has a fine collection of surfboard rentals. He is located in Labenne-Océan, 5 minutes South of Hossegor and 20 minutes North of Biarritz. Email him at info@oceangypsysurf.com or call him 33 (0) 6 33 82 14 26 to reserve a board.

Where to Eat in Southern France

There are many different places to eat, from the worst to the best. Don’t worry about it before you come. If there is one thing that the French people don’t joke about, it is food and wine.

You’ll find many French restaurants and food from around the world. One thing to keep in mind is the afternoon eating schedule. The French tend to start lunch around one and finish eating around three; if you arrive too late, they might not serve you.

Vegans will find it hard to eat in France, but vegetarians who eat cheese are in paradise. Grab a bottle of red wine, a French baguette from the bakery, and a chunk of blue cheese, and you are golden.

You’ll also find many street markets, organic or not. If you have an apartment, buying food at the street market and cooking it at home is the cheapest way to eat. But you’ll need a place with a kitchen, another reason to get an apartment.

If you like red wine, like me, then you are in France's most bountiful wine zone with so many delicious Bordeaux that your head will spin when you walk into the store to select one. France’s first extensive vineyards were established by Rome in around 122 BC in today’s Languedoc and then later perfected in Bordeaux.

Bordeaux

Savoring a glass of Bordeaux after a day of surfing the waves in Southern France.

The major reason for the success of wine-making in the Bordeaux region is the excellent environment for growing vines. The region's geological foundation is limestone, leading to a calcium-rich soil structure.

In Bordeaux, almost all wines are blended. The typical blend consists of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (and/or Cabernet Franc), with small additions of Petit Verdot and Malbec.

So, my friends, the real gift of the French is in how they blend those varieties. However, the French use another interesting trick called chaptalization, which means they add sugar before undergoing barrel aging. In the south, you can get a good bottle of Bordeaux for 4 euros, so it won’t break your wallet either.

Excellent red wine and sick barrels—what else could you ask for?

Surfing Southern France Budget

Accommodation will run $50 - $100 a night in most places, and your food budget is up to you. Shopping for fresh groceries and preparing meals will be much less costly than eating out every meal.

I recommend finding an apartment as part of your trip. Most breaks in the South are within a reasonable driving distance from each other. You could do a ten-day trip (with a car) for about $2000 USD, less if you camp and prepare most of your own food.

Add a few nights in Paris, some good meals out, and a few bottles of Bordeaux; that low budget could easily double.

If you want to go to France in the summer—during July and August—it will be very expensive.

💡Insider’s Tip: Accommodation is much easier to rent and most summer rentals sit unoccupied during this season. You’ll be able to get long-term rentals for about 40% less. Check out https://www.abritel.fr/ for great rentals. Also, check campsites (where you can rent mobile homes) and surf camps.

The well-known surf spots are more expensive. Be forewarned: You must book your accommodation very early in the year for travel during the high season—if not, you’ll be sleeping on the beach, which might be cool, too.

Where to Stay in Southern France

  • Campsites

    There are campsites in every coastal city. Prices vary depending on the area's popularity—for example, camping in popular spots like Hossegor or Lacanau is much more expensive. You’ll find the prices on the internet. Here is a good resource: https://www.campingfrance.com/uk

  • Guest Houses

    There are few guest houses in France. Chambres d'hôtes are the way to go—you rent a room in a family house and can share meals and learn about the culture. Rooms can be offered in a home or a spare room in the garden.

    This is highly recommended for people who want to learn about French culture and lifestyle. If you want, you can eat with the owner in some situations. There are a lot of different prices; this site is a good resource: https://www.chambresdhotesfrance.com/

  • Couch Surfing

    This can be a fun way to travel and spend time in someone’s home or on their couch. France has a big representation on this site: https://www.couchsurfing.com/

  • Hotels

    There are thousands of hotels in France. You’ll find all types of prices. You can book them on the internet: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g187070-France-Hotels.html

  • Apartments

    Consider renting a place for a week or longer. Many websites offer long-term rentals. Here are a few links to get you started: https://www.vrbo.com/, https://www.abritel.fr/, and https://www.airbnb.com/. I have used Abritel and liked it.

Where to Go First in Southern France

Surfing Lacanau, FranceSurfing Lacanau, France
Photo by yohan. on Pexels

Lacanau is a small, quaint town and an excellent place to start your trip. The further south you go, the more crowded it will be. From Bordeaux train station, it’s about 45 minutes by car to Lacanau or about 1.5 hours to Hossegor.

🌊 Lacanau's surf report.

You’ll want to check the surf reports to see what’s happening, but if there is swell, all those places will work. Lacanau has a lower-profile surf scene than its cousins in the South and is more laid-back. It feels more rustic and is an excellent place to ease into the southern vibe.

You’ll find fewer crowds in this region and have the opportunity to explore some of the lesser-surfed breaks to the north, towards the Bay of Biscay.

Here is the swell forecast for you:
Good site for wind.

    Region I: The Médoc

    The best waves are in Médoc, which was suggested by a French local. Even if it’s perfect, you can surf alone or just with your friends. The waves only break on sandbars, and there is a spot on every baïnes—every 300 to 400 meters.

    A baïne is a kind of big hole in the beach, parallel to the ocean, made by the currents. At the door of the baïne, you’ll find the sandbars. Be careful when surfing the baïnes; people die every year from the currents, and they can be tricky to manage in big swells.

    💡Insider’s Tip: The Vitalparc at Route du Baganais is a nice hotel-resort in Lacanau for less than 100 euros a night. The website is https://www.vitalparc.com/, and the phone number is 33 (0) 5 56 03 91 00.

    I have stayed there a few times—it’s about a 5-minute drive to the ocean and has nice dining and even a spa for your lady. Want a massage after your long session? The worst thing about the Médoc is that there aren’t a lot of sheltered spots and the wind can cause some real havoc.

    When the wind is onshore, it’s best to look inside the mouth of the river called the Garonne—here, you’ll find some off-shore waves, but usually a bit smaller than in other places. You can also check the waves north of Lacanau towards Soulac.

    The waves tend to get smaller as you travel north, depending on the swell. Also, remember to watch the tides. My favorite place to surf is right in town at Lacanau, and here is a surf school if you are looking for one.

    Lacanau Surf Club

    There are a few really good sandbars and jetties that produce barrelling waves when the conditions are right. This place changes on the tide swings and can look totally uninviting at low tide and then turn on at high tide, so keep an eye on it and don’t be surprised if it jumps within a few hours.

    You can hang out at Le Kayoc, where they have free Wi-Fi, and watch it. Le Kayoc is the restaurant at the end of the main drag, and it looks out onto several breaks. The food is okay.

    Region II: The Landes

    The best waves in France are around Hossegor, Seignosse, and Capbreton—simply put, the surf is world-class in this area, where professional surf contests are held each year.

    There is a very deep fault at the bottom of the ocean in front of this region (much like Blacks in California). This means that the swell arrives extremely fast onto the sandbars, creating very large and powerful barrels (like the one on the previous page). Unfortunately, this region is cursed with the same wind issue as the Médoc.

    You can surf big waves in La Nord (north) in Hossegor—from 12 to 14 feet. The southern beaches in Hossegor are a bit more sheltered from the larger swells if that’s more your style. So, if it’s too big in the north, try hitting the southern beaches. It can be twice as big on the northern beaches—a strange phenomenon. Just a few hundred feet north, it starts to get much bigger.

    If it’s really big, try heading for Capbreton. You can surf sheltered waves at the Santosha, but just as in Le Sud, that damn French wind blows hard and could ruin your session. I have had some great sessions over the years in this region, and I find the French trés cool in the water. Always remember to be respectful of the locals and other surfers in the water and follow courteous surfing etiquette—no snakes.

    🌊 Capbreton's surf report.

    Region III: Pays Basque (Basque Country)

    The Basque country has a wide variety of waves with wonderful quality—this is one of the most beautiful coastlines in all of Europe. The mountains and ocean are married at the same place. That means that in wintertime, you can have surfing and snowboarding sessions on the same day.

    In Anglet and Biarritz, you’ll find hollow waves on sandbars. If you go south from Biarritz, you’ll find a lot of different waves on reefs and sandbars. There are a lot of sheltered spots in the Basque region, and it’s the best place to surf when the wind is howling, or the surf is gigantic.

    A solid swell at Biarritz can be super fun, with options at Anglet five minutes away and playful reefs in the southern part of the city.

    🌊 Anglet and Biarritz’s surf report.

    Surfing at Grande Plage in Biarritz can be really fun. It’s a thumping wave, and when it’s going, the peaks shift around so you can get waves even in the crowd if you work it. Try sitting outside near the rocks to catch some of the larger sets.

    💡Insider’s Tip: I recommend the Hotel Le Bellevue in downtown Biarritz, located right in front of an excellent surf spot and close to shopping and great food (check out the Italian restaurant right across the street). There are also beautiful walks along the boardwalk. The hotel is located at 5 Avenue Edouard VII. The phone number is +33559030450, and the email is info@lebellevue.fr.

    If you hunt for the right spot, you can find miraculous waves without too many people, or you can keep going south to Spain—a totally different experience but one you will not want to miss!

    Surf Guide to Northern Spain

    San Sebastian is only about 30 minutes from downtown Biarritz, and if the swell is too big in France, it might be perfect in San Sebastian. The winds are also different in Spain, and sometimes, it can be totally blown out in France and glassy in Spain.

    San Sebastian is a very protected spot, protected by huge cliffs from the north and south. It's a nice day trip from France. Follow the signs out on the main highway and head toward Spain. The border is about 30 minutes from Biarritz.

    You’ll go through several tolls on this route, so grab some spare change. Depending on how deep into Spain you go, you’ll need about 20 euros each way. Most of the tolls are automated. You throw the change into this bucket, and the gate opens. It’s a pain if you don’t have the exact change; in fact, they will make you turn around if you can't pay.

    Once you enter Spain, the coast makes a large sweeping turn, and the beaches go from west-facing to north-facing in just a few miles. Thus, the more northerly swells slam right into Spain, providing epic waves just around the corner.

    Surfing San Sebastian, Spain

    San Sebastian is a fun wave and will hold plenty of swells.

    Try to find a parking spot at the north end of the beach against the cliff. Two blocks off the beach, there is a paid parking structure; just follow the signs. Don’t leave any valuables in your car.

    💡Insider’s Tip: Try the People’s Cafe on the main beach at San Sebastian for an awesome post-beer session and watch the other surfers while basking in the sun. They have excellent sandwiches and really fresh bread and cold beer.

    You can’t miss the wave at San Sebastian. There is a left off the jetty and a fun right next to the rocks at the north end of the beach. Depending on the swell, it sometimes breaks in the middle section, too. This is a fun place to hang out for the day, and you'll be surprised how different Spain is from France.

    Surfing Mundaka, Spain

    If you have crossed the border into Spain, you are not far from one of the premier waves in Europe—Mundaka. The tides, wind, and swell have to be just right, but if you are lucky, you might score this wave. I'd check it for sure if there is a lot of swell. It needs 3-5 meters to work.

    Mundaka is situated on a beautiful cliff overlooking a breathtaking river mouth. Look up the river and be blown away by the immense beauty of this place. Getting there by car, look for the Gernika exit right before (coming from France) the city of Bilbao.

    Follow the signs towards Bermeo, and eventually, you’ll drop right into Mundaka, about 20 minutes off the main highway. If you get lost along the way, just pull over and ask any local: “Donde esta Mundaka?”

    Once you are in Mundaka, prepare yourself for a small maze of streets. Work towards the harbor—the main break is right before the harbor opening. If you have a van, you can camp in the main parking lot above the break. As always, be respectful, and if the police come to your vehicle, offer to buy them a beer

    To get to the main break, head toward the harbor, jump in next to the boats, and paddle about 30 yards into the lineup.

    💡Insider’s Tip: The best place to stay in Mundaka is the Hotel El Puerto. The hotel is literally right next to the main break, and for less than 100 euros, you can watch the waves and sip a cervesa. Make a reservation at https://www.hotelelpuerto.com/en/ or give a jingle at 34 94 687 6725.

    Check the middle and inside sections of the waves, too. If the peak is crowded, the middle section can sometimes be super fun.

    🌊 Mundaka's surf report.

    Most people know Mundaka as a fun left, but if the sandbars are set up just right, you can also surf a sweet barreling right. When we were there in 2012, we surfed some of the best right tubes of the trip. You just never know what will happen in Europe.

    There is also a super fun beach break across the bay and a reef break near the island at the mouth of the river.

    Do some exploring. You’ll be stoked! Bon Voyage! Have a great trip. Let us know what you think of the Wave Tribe Surf Travel Guide Series, and don’t forget to check out Wave Tribe for great eco-surfing gear before your trip.

    Go out there and score some waves. Traveling will change your life and is one of the most precious activities you will ever do!

    Derek Dodds, Founder Wave Tribe