Nov 18, 2018
When I came to Puerto in May I fell in love with the place: a long sandy beach, perfect clean barrels and nice palapas were one could drink a beer, eat some good food, and watch the sunset. A few weeks later the rain started and with it came the sacred offshore winds. However, the rain also brought in a bunch of trash that was carried from the rivermouths and the streets all the way to the sand .
Nov 13, 2018
The state of Oaxaca (pronounced: wah-HA-ka) in Southern Mexico is home to what could be considered the most-famous beachbreak in the world: Zicatela Beach, aka Puerto Escondido.
Nov 6, 2018
During the duration of my ride I passed all walks, pedals and glides of life. Randy looks at me and then down at his belongings.......”there’s no helicopter coming for me.”
Nov 6, 2018
Glancing over his shoulder, his attention galvanized, his body flooded with readiness, he accelerated his stroke, and whispered with a vaguely ironic smile, "It's a good day to die." Almost regardless of size, steepness, speed, surface of the sea floor, or even level of surfing competency, many of us have experienced analogous feeling of being up against our limits or some unknowns that awoke primal fears and primal responses of readiness to engage with it.
